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Steve Tamburelli's avatar

Great piece here and follow up to Ted Hall’s work. While I understand the forces that have gotten us to this place, I hesitate to look to public policy and more regulation as the solution. Markets are incredibly efficient beasts and will get us to the right place. My guess is that the destination may be a place that is uncomfortable for many of the current players (and whatever new players that aren’t equipped for what’s ahead), but I think it’s hard to deny that the journey there has begun. Tasting rooms shuttering, wineries closing, layoffs, bank pressure. All part of the Darwinian trek to a balanced market.

Steve Bowden's avatar

This is a thoughtful and well-structured piece, and Ted's original diagnosis deserved exactly this kind of prescriptive response. The fragmentation analysis is right. The legacy permit inequity observation is real, if narrower than the framing suggests. And the shift from expansion to optimization is the correct direction.

But I want to push on the premise, because I think it's carrying more weight than it can hold.

"Napa didn't lose demand, per se" is doing enormous load-bearing work here. Reports by SVB, Community Benchmark, Commerce7 and well documented generational drinking trends all suggest that the stability in visitation numbers may be a ledge, not a plateau. And you are absolutely correct that visitation is mostly driven by day trippers -- even in 2019 that was the case as Visit Napa Valley used to track and report. Wine's share of total alcohol is shrinking. The sober curious movement, cannabis, and broader lifestyle shifts are not cyclical corrections. They are structural. If that's true, the arithmetic is worse than you're describing, and supply rationalization — however rational — just slows the rate at which incumbents feel the pain.

On the permit inequity: I've been through the Napa permitting process, and the picture is more complicated than it appears. Nearly any significant winery expansion or operational modification triggers a use permit update that typically subjects the impacted spaces to current standards — parking, water, wastewater, fire, all of it. Pre-WDO status doesn't provide much insulation once a winery has been materially modified, and very few haven't been. The variation in visitation limits is real, but attributing it to systemic inequity is speculative. Some of it is physical. Some of it is the political environment at the moment of approval (e.g. Napa Vision 2050). Some of it may be negotiation. Harmonizing those numbers would mean reopening agreements that some operators benefited from and won't willingly revisit.

But here's what I think is the central issue, and where I'd push back most directly: the county's job is not to guarantee that any individual winery is successful or profitable. Its job is to enforce the spirit of the Agricultural Preserve and the Winery Definition Ordinance, imperfectly and incrementally, as it always has.

We have roughly 400 wineries in a 30-mile stretch. Most of the newer ones were built without the marketing infrastructure, the DTC discipline or the brand differentiation required to take share from a more established neighbor. That is a business plan problem, not a structural one. A ten-year permit pause doesn't rescue those operations. It just prevents new entrants from making the same mistake while the existing underperformers work through their own correction.

The consolidation you acknowledge is already underway. The market is already delivering the verdict. The county stepping in to manage the pace of that process, through a pause, a transfer tax, or a harmonized operating framework, may feel like stewardship. But it's closer to market protection — and for the operators who built real customer relationships and real DTC infrastructure, it mostly just delays the competitive clarity they've already earned.

The question isn't whether Napa should stop overbuilding. It should, and arguably should have sooner. The question is whether policy can substitute for the marketing and operational discipline that the struggling tier of wineries didn't or couldn't build. I'm skeptical that it can.

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